Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
